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Fans of Fashion

The origin of hand fans can be traced as far back as four thousand years ago in Egypt. The fan was seen as a sacred instrument, used in religious ceremonies, and as a symbol of royalty power. With the discovery of King Tutankhamun's tomb, two elaborate fans were found in his tomb, one with a golden handle covered in ostrich feathers and the other was ebony, covered with gold and precious stones. Three thousand year old drawings still exist showing elegant Chinese ladies using fans. The ancient Greeks wrote poems of fans being the "scepters of feminine beauty" and Romans brought Greek fans back to Rome as objects of great value. Images of punk ha wallahs waving enormous branches from palm trees over the Kings and Queens of ancient civilizations also indicate the early pomp and glory of fans.

In the seventeenth century, China was importing huge quantities of exotic fans into Europe. These small utilitarian instruments could regulate ambient air temperature and provide a means of self-cooling or hide one's temper and blushes. In addition, fans could shield the eyes from the glare of the sun, prevent an unfashionable tanning of the skin outdoors and prevent ruddy complexions arising from too vigorous a fire indoors, hence, the development of the hand-held fire screen. The eighteenth century Georgian fans represented the most exquisite objects d'art, the perfect gift for a lady of good taste, and connoisseur of the handcrafted object. Fans also had a particular place in the masquerade balls across Europe in that century, hiding the faces of their owners, as part of an elaborate ritual of flirtation.

Fan languages or "fan flirtation rules" were a way to cope with the restricting social etiquette. The main rules must have been practiced just to remember them, not to mention the young fellows who also had to learn the language of fans!

  • Holding a fan in the left hand signified "desired acquaintance"

  • Resting the fan on the right cheek meant "yes" and left cheek "no"

  • Twirling a fan in the left hand meant "I wish to be rid of you" and the right hand meant "I love another"

  • A fan held on the left ear signified "you have changed"

  • Pulling a fan across the forehead meant "we are watched", across the eyes meant "I am sorry"

  • A wide open fan meant "wait for me"

  • Dropping a fan meant "we could be friends"

  • Fast fanning meant "I am married"

  • Swift pulling of a fan through the hand meant "I hate you"

  • Placing the handle of a fan to the lips meant "kiss me"


  • French Fan of Fashion
    French Fan of Fashion

    By 1865 the fan was an indispensable fashion accessory for the emergent middle classes, reaching the peak of its success in the Victorian era. Fashion dictated that all women have a fan. Like many other utilitarian objects for women, fans became works of art. The kind of fan a woman owned was based on her social status, ranging from street vendors to hand painted, mother of pearl or ivory inlaid with gold and precious jewels. This availability to all, led to an extraordinary snobbery about the fan.

    Fans survived into the twentieth century but much of the past elegance, and the unspoken language of oriental mystique had fallen to the side, except in the case of postcards. Fans made one last appearance during the postcard era and then, once again, they became practical as souvenirs, advertisements (including political), decorations and friendship gifts.

    The images used in this article are a reduced copy taken from the
    images and vintage fashion postcards found in our shop.

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    Fashion



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    Bibliography:
    Uunfolding Beuaty; The Art of the Fan, Anna Gray Bennet, 1988
    The History of the Fan, Paul Kegan, 1910
    Unfolding Pictures: Fans in the Royal Collection, Jane Roberts, 2006


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